Wednesday, 18 September 2019

Wednesday 18 September – Zooming in on Zaragoza.


After the luxury of a sleep-in, something that has been denied us the last several weeks, we boarded the local bus to Zaragoza centre – comfortable, quick, cheap.  After alighting we walked up Carre Caesar Augustus (Zaragoza is derived, via Arabic, from the Latin for Caesar Augustus, the name bestowed on the city in the 1st century CE by the Roman emperor of that name).  First stop was, of course, a church, the Parrochia del Santiago el Mayor, dating from 1625.  Large and very impressive, but it does not rate a mention in the tourist brochures – perhaps a sign of things awaiting us.  We continued on to the Basilica del Pilar – a double wow with pike!  This gigantic cathedral dates from 1680, built on the site of an earlier 11th century Romanesque church, and contains many valuable artworks and frescoes painted by Goya, Zaragosa’s favourite son.   It is absolutely huge, with many different chapels and long, wide, open corridors that seem to have any specific purpose – just wide open spaces.  There was a service going on at the time, which limited our access somewhat, and photographs are prohibited, which limits your access.

Then a short walk to the end of the square to the Cathedral del Salvador, built over the main mosque of the old Muslim city.  It contains an eclectic mix of styles, from Romanesque to Neoclassical.  The huge Gothic altarpiece is so detailed that it is difficult to take it all in – and we sat there for quite some time, trying.  On all sides of the church are private chapels, each seemingly intent on outdoing the other.  An artisan’s wonder.

After lunch at a nearby tapas bar we boarded the tourist bus for the 90-minute loop to learn more of the history of the city and get our bearings for our return trip tomorrow. Spain has amazing architecture and we passed many buildings that combine architecture with nature in the Gaudi tradition.  During the journey we passed over the Millennium Bridge, built in 2008, the largest bridge in the world with a raised cable-stayed arc, measuring 270 metres long, enabling it to span the Ebro River. We also passed over Puente de Piedra, or Stone Bridge, completed in 1659 after failed attempts dating back to the 13th century to build a bridge that would not be swept away in floods.  It is guarded at each end by a pair of fierce-looking lions.

After leaving the bus we walked to the Goya Museum and spent a pleasant hour viewing many of his originals as well as the many prints that he produced – it seems that Goya was one of the first to mass-produce his art.  The gallery also contains artworks by those who influenced Goya and those who were influenced by him.

Then back down Carre Caesar Augustus and on to our 603 bus for the journey home.














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