Monday 9 September – A castle (of course), a cave, and the World’s Best Hot Chocolate.

Back on the road this morning – 12 degrees and raining! It seems we’ve had our ration of fine weather for Scotland.  Despite the rain, the drive was beautiful and dramatic - at times breathtakingly so – as we passed lochs and small lakes and, later in the drive, reached the coastline.  As a result of the constant rain and drizzle, we consistently spotted rivulets coursing down the sides of the mountains.  The roadsides are lined with a riot of pink heather and thistles (we later learned that this region is home to the Great Yellow Bumblebee, previously widespread through the UK but now endemic only to a small number of places in north and west Scotland where there is an abundance of flora for their survival).

First stop was to admire the ruins of the 16^th century Ardvreck Castle, again perched on a peninsula jutting out into Loch Assynt.  We then continued, crossing the large steel Kylescu Bridge, completed in 1984 over the Loch a' Chàirn Bhàin and seeming out of character after the beautiful stone bridges we have become accustomed to.  We continued along at a leisurely pace, frequently stopping to brave the weather and admire the views.  At times we were able to read information boards highlighting the Viking influence in this region.

We eventually made it to Durness, the most north-westerly village in Scotland.  Predictably, we headed straight for Cocoa Mountain and enjoyed the richest, chocolatiest, most decadent, most delectable hot chocolate ever made – no food necessary, just the hot chocolate.  We then waddled around the adjacent craft village, admiring art works and ceramics made from all sorts of locals products, drift wood and rusty steel and iron.

Then it was about a mile out of town to Smoo Cave.  This large open cave, some 50 feet high at the entrance, has been both workshops and homes to generations of fishermen in times long past – up to 7,000 years ago - as can still be seen by middens that have contained animal bones and other evidence of occupation.  What makes it especially interesting is that it has a gushing waterfall inside.  The cave itself has been carved out over the millennia by the smashing waves of the sea, however it has been further eroded inside by the waters of the Allt Smoo, a stream (or, after the rain, a raging torrent as it was when we saw it today) which crashes down through a hole in the ceiling.  Another stream bubbles up from beneath the deep pool at the back of the cave.  After having a look at the entry point of the waterfall, we paused to read the display panels and then made our way down a long set of steps to sea level and across a wooden footbridge into the cave.  Quite spectacular (and wet!).

Back up and a short drive to the John Lennon Memorial Garden, erected in memory of John as he spent many childhood holidays here.  Then to the Sango Sands Oasis, a local pub and camping ground, for lunch, then a drive further out of town to check out the Smoo Cave Hotel, a small, family-run pub, then back into Durness and the Wild Orchid Guest House, our home for the night.