Sunday, 1 September 2019

Sunday 1 September – Castle walls, a wee house and a tremendous tram.


After a Father’s Day breakfast of scrambled eggs on toast, we set off for the coastal town of Conwy, passing through narrow country lanes where you wondered whether you would meet something coming around the next corner. Conwy is a fishing port and major tourist attraction and the entire town is overlooked by the magnificent 13th century castle and the town walls, which were both constructed during  the same period under the orders of Edward I, and which are all still remarkably intact.  We were able to ascend the walls at one point and walk for several hundred metres, gaining expansive views across the town and to the castle and the harbour.

When we eventually descended, at the extremity closest to the harbour, we headed quayside to Quay House, known in Welsh as “Y Tŷ Lleiaf ym Mhrydain Fawr” – The Smallest House in Britain (as certified by the Guinness Book of Records).  This tiny, tiny house was built in the 16th century and comprises two rooms, a street-level living room that measures approximately 3m x 1.8m and one upper room that is markedly smaller (and cannot be entered, but can be viewed by climbing a step-ladder, which itself takes up floor space).  It is believed that it originally housed a family of six, however the most recent occupant, about 1900, was a 6’3” fisherman - that’s 190cm, and the entire house was only 3m high from bottom floor to top floor ceiling, with a ceiling/floor in between .   He was forced to move out when the house was declared uninhabitable and marked for demolition, however after the house lay empty for many years the authorities relented and it is now a tourist attraction.  Incidentally, it is still owned by the fisherman’s descendants.

As we left the house the heavens opened and we took refuge in the Liverpool Arms, an 18th century pub reputed to be haunted then, after lunch, wandered up the High Street and then off a side street to St Mary’s Church, built in 1284, and viewed its fascinating historical relics, mainly dating from the 15th century, including the choir stalls with their original graffiti, the font, the rood screens commemorating the marriage of Henry VII’s son to Catherine of Aragon (who was later to marry her now-deceased husband’s brother Henry, who went on to become Henry VIII).  There is also a floor slab to Nicholas Crookes, who was the 41st child of his father and who went on to father 27 children himself. Very fitting to be viewing this on Fathers’ Day….and Nathan’s birthday…he only has 24 more to go!

We then left Conwy and drove to Llandudro, the largest North Wales coastal resorts, as was confirmed by the number of people we encountered as we drove adjacent to the long seaside promenade, lined with hotels and guest houses.  We then parked and walked up to the Great Orme Tramway station and boarded the open funicular (cable-drawn) tram for the 1500 metre, 20 minute journey to the summit of the Great Orme.  The tramway, which dates back to 1902, is a great engineering feat and is Britain’s only cable-hauled pubic road tramway.  The views from the top were magnificent, although the wind up there was so strong it would blow a dog off a chain. Incidentally it costs one pound for a dog to ride the tram.

Back down and a leisurely drive back to our lovely little cottage, again along some narrow roads.  A wonderful day, and a wonderful Father’s Day for John.


















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